It’s 9:19AM on a Saturday morning and I am currently seated at Mangette, a new cafe eatery tucked between E 11th St and Loma Ave. in Long Beach. Jazzy tunes play through the speakers and the space is quiet and mostly empty, though I attribute this to them only having been open for two weeks. As I wait for my food, I notice the thoughtful touches in the space: hand embroidered monograms on their napkins, mismatched wooden chairs, wooden tables with black iron legs and linen cushioned banquettes with pillows lining the wall. The assortment of stools in the outdoor porch. The design is minimalistic, reminiscent of Scandinavian design with a bit of that eclectic SoCal casual mixed in.
I ordered my usual drink – a matcha latte, which was hand whisked by the barista (instead of premade like at some other cafes for efficiency) and a breakfast dish named Farmer Market Grains. It boasts a beautiful soubise made of cream and mushrooms, braised and seared cubes of daikon and a perfectly jello-y poached egg over a bed of farro and what I guess to be chanterelles mixed in. I remember my gluten intolerance and still devour the dish (update: no reaction) and it was delightful. The dish was served lukewarm.
The process of ordering and serving at Mangette is a concept that, as a native New Yorker and traveler, I had to get used to as, perhaps, a California method. You order at the counter, pay and tip at the same time before receiving your food. You get a placard with a number and seat yourself anywhere you choose. Consume your food. Stay as long as you wish. Get checked in on for water. Leave when you’re ready. No need to ask for the bill or wave a server over. I kinda like this concept. It makes the experience flow a bit better.
The servers at Mangette are meticulous and you can tell the care, effort and conscious execution of energy in each movement they make – like when placing napkins on a tray, scooping homemade ice cream for an affogato or even their attentiveness in asking patrons in outdoor seating for water. Finding a good team is difficult and they seems to have found their people so far.
Mangette is a welcome addition to Long Beach’s Eastside, a grittier section of the city surrounded by autoshops, fast casual foods and some other heavy hitters in the food scene. In the two years that I’ve been here, it seems as if Long Beach’s food scene is shifting.
Not to discount the wonderful spots serving up dishes – like Michelin starred Heritage, crazy good Thai food at Chiang Rai, savory South American cuisine at Selva and the countless mom-and-pop restaurants slinging Mexican, Cambodian and Thai – but with Alder & Sage, a full service cafe and restaurant, also coming onto the scene this year, it seems as if Long Beach’s vision for food and drink is bridging together a few things. It’s not uncommon now to see people working on their laptops at spaces like Alder & Sage where patrons have an array of items in front of them: their laptops, an artisanal latte and a dish of food to graze at while they work.
The upscale and refined casual dining scene isn’t a new thing. It’s been around for a while. But tucked away in this mostly quiet neighborhood, it seems a sign that points towards a cultural shift too. Perhaps the past few years of a worldwide pandemic has shifted the priorities of mass consciousness. Where gathering together is more sacred…intimate…requires slowing down…and asks for all of us to balance both work and play at the same time.
I’m a fan of spaces that welcomes both casual coffee drinks and voracious foodies…where these two seemingly different worlds collide. One usually thinks of cafes as a spot to do deep focus work, chat or grab something to go. And then of dining establishments – an affair, a ritual or perhaps a special treat. Perhaps people are more eager to gather in public spaces and now these public spaces must host a myriad of intentions.
I really appreciate the slow casual atmosphere of a beautifully decorated cafe space where food options extend beyond pastries warmed up. It reminds me of my travels to Europe, South America and Southeast Asia, where the cafe culture there focuses less on turnaround time and more on creating an ambience for people to comfortably settle in, collaborate and enjoy a moment of stillness in an increasingly fast paced world.
With the loss of Under The Sun – a cult classic raw vegan space – I’m wondering if anyone will be up for the challenge to bring raw food back to Long Beach. As a gluten free vegetarian and hobby vegan, cooking for one is a task I’m not always up for and eating well (i.e. nourishing, healthy, plant forward) seems to be the very ethos of Californian dining.
For now, we take what we can get. And that makes me think – perhaps there is a concept I’m wanting to birth into this space. I’ll keep enjoying the space and options that seem to be popping up and keep an eye out…
Until next cafe adventure,
Jules
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